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83

Kirkland Signature (Costco)

100% Colombia Dark Roast

Roaster Location: Seattle, Washington
Coffee Origin: Colombia
Roast Level: Very Dark
Agtron: 0/46
Review Date: January 2008
Aroma: 6
Acidity: 6
Body: 8
Flavor: 7
Aftertaste: 7

Blind Assessment

Low in acidity, with a sweet, mildly fermented fruit that struck me as a bit too cloyingly sweet (banana-ish fruit, cut flowers past their prime) in the aroma, but cleaner and more attractive in the cup (banana, slightly fresher flowers, syrupy mouthfeel) and especially in a rich, fruity, if mildly astringent finish.

Notes

This Colombia coffee was produced by some of the 600,000-plus members of the National Federation of the Coffee Growers of Colombia, an association of mostly small-holding Colombian growers whose reliably good-quality coffee, community support programs and sophisticated marketing campaigns around the Juan Valdez symbol together constitute one of the great successes of coffee history. That said, this is not a classic Colombia but an interestingly flawed version that also happens to be a remarkable bargain. At Costco in Northern California, $7.99 per 48-ounce can ground, or 16 cents per ounce. Costco is a membership-only wholesaler and retailer with stores in most areas of the United States. Visit www.costco.com for more information.

Who Should Drink It

A lushly sweet, low-acid coffee with the character of mildly fermented bananas at a bargain price. You know who you are.

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This review originally appeared in the January, 2008 tasting report: Big Bags from the Big Boxes: Value All-Arabicas from the Discount Chains

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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