Courtesy of Kenneth Davids, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide
Uganda is the native home of Coffea canephora, or Robusta. This coffee species, now cultivated across the tropical world, still grows wild in the protected forests of western Uganda. Robusta continues to be important to Uganda; at this writing, Uganda is the world’s fifth-largest producer of coffee from the species. Uganda Robustas are particularly high-grown, and when processed with care rank among the world’s best of this species.
Uganda Arabica Coffees
Uganda also produces Arabica coffees, both commodity dry processed and higher-end wet processed. In 2020 the Ugandan government launched an ambitious program intended to increase both the volume and quality of Uganda Arabicas. Most specialty Uganda Arabicas originate on the western slopes of massive Mount Elgon, near the border with Kenya. Coffees from this region are most frequently marketed as Bugisu, the name of the majority of the people who live in the region and grow the coffee, or as Sipi Falls, the name of a spectacular three-stage waterfall associated with the region. Many of the coffees exported from this region are produced through the Sipi Falls Coffee Project, a successful development program started in 2000 that draws coffees from several thousand small-holding producers in the region.
The Bugisu/Sipi Falls Cup Profile
These coffees are produced from a mix of traditional tree varieties, most showing the influence of the heirloom Bourbon variety, although Typica-related varieties like Blue Mountain are also grown. The characteristic cup tends toward sweet/savory depth and richness with dark chocolate and aromatic wood notes, but its profile varies depending on whether the wet processing is conducted at a centralized, conventional wet mill (in which case the lot is usually described as fully washed) or by individual small holders on their farms.
The farm-processed coffees (often described as home washed) understandably tend to a rustic profile with malty/musty or earthy notes that have made them a plausible blend substitute for lesser Sumatra coffees. Regardless of processing details, Bugisu Ugandas are relatively high grown, promoting syrupy mouthfeel and substantial acidity. The acidity is usually rich and low-toned in the farm-processed coffees, brighter and cleaner in conventionally processed, fully washed coffee from the centralized mills.
Environment and Socioeconomics
Sipi Falls coffees are all certified organic, and many carry additional certifications, making them good choices for socially and environmentally progressive consumers. Although in recent decades Uganda has produced more than its quotient of negative news stories, coffee consumers should keep in mind that the Ugandan leadership has generated the headlines, not the over 300,000 small-holding coffee farmers and the 3 million or so Ugandans who depend on coffee for their livelihood.
Other premium Arabicas are grown at the northern tip of Lake Albert in western Uganda (White Nile coffees) and in the southwestern tip of the country close to the borders with Democratic Republic of the Congo and Rwanda. As with the Sipi Falls coffees, these are usually small-holder coffees supported by development organizations, and almost always carry organic certification, sometimes bolstered by fair trade certification.
Uganda Coffee Ratings and Reviews
Click here to see reviews of coffees from Uganda.
