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94

Terroir Select Coffees

Sumatra Golden Mandheling

Roaster Location: Acton, Massachusetts
Coffee Origin: Mandheling growing region, North Sumatra Province, Sumatra, Indonesia.
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 51/68
Review Date: December 2005
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment: An extraordinary coffee in the earth and fruit style of traditional Indonesias. In the aroma moist leaves turning toward fresh earth, together with buttery, candyish top notes. In the cup full-bodied, with pungent, moist earth tones and crisp, low-acid fruit notes suggesting pear and cherry. The pungent tones smooth out in a sweetly rich finish.

Notes: Mandheling is the traditional market name for coffee grown in the region around Lake Toba in north-central Sumatra. Like many single-malt whiskies, Mandhelings gain much of their interest from odd or ambiguous flavor notes: earth, mild mustiness, slightly fermented fruit. Terroir is a recently established microroaster selling only elite single-origin coffees, no blends. It specializes in medium roast styles designed to foreground the character of the green coffee. Terroir is the creation of George Howell, one of the world's leading coffee visionaries. Visit www.terroircoffee.com or call 866-444-5282 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: A very impressive traditional Sumatra for admirers of this unorthodox origin.

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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Shop at Rhetoric Coffee

Shop for 93-point Yemen coffee at Baba Java

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