Blind Assessment: An extraordinary coffee in the earth and fruit style of traditional Indonesias. In the aroma moist leaves turning toward fresh earth, together with buttery, candyish top notes. In the cup full-bodied, with pungent, moist earth tones and crisp, low-acid fruit notes suggesting pear and cherry. The pungent tones smooth out in a sweetly rich finish.

Notes: Mandheling is the traditional market name for coffee grown in the region around Lake Toba in north-central Sumatra. Like many single-malt whiskies, Mandhelings gain much of their interest from odd or ambiguous flavor notes: earth, mild mustiness, slightly fermented fruit. Terroir is a recently established microroaster selling only elite single-origin coffees, no blends. It specializes in medium roast styles designed to foreground the character of the green coffee. Terroir is the creation of George Howell, one of the world's leading coffee visionaries. Visit www.terroircoffee.com or call 866-444-5282 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: A very impressive traditional Sumatra for admirers of this unorthodox origin.