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LATEST REVIEWS

We have published thousands of coffee reviews and espresso reviews since 1997. The reviews below appear in reverse chronological order by review date. Older reviews may no longer accurately reflect current versions of the same coffee. To search for a specific roaster, origin or coffee use the Advanced Search Function.


81

Alterra Coffee Roasters

Costa Rica Lomas al Rio

Review Date: Nov 1998

Ingratiating and open, this coffee makes the most of what it brings to the cup. Not bright but gently lively, nicely balanced between sweet and dry tones, with a pleasant supporting resonance. As the cup cools a slight, almost indistinguishable (storage-related?) hardness seems to shadow the sweetness.

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80

Dallis Bros. Coffee

Organic Blue de Brazil Estate

Review Date: Nov 1998

Judged on aroma alone, this coffee easily would top the ratings. Intense, deeply dimensioned nut tones soar with an exhilarating sweetness. In the cup, however, things quiet down quickly. A heavy, low-toned acidity dominates a profile complicated by interesting spicy and smoky notes, but without much lift or dimension.

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79

Green Mountain Coffee Roasters

Organic Sumatran Reserve

Review Date: Nov 1998

The center of the profile is satisfyingly round and full but rather opaque, without lift or brightness. The lone complication is a hint of pungent, pruny fruitiness that turns slightly hard as the cup cools. The impassive profile reveals nuance only as it fades rather richly in the aftertaste.

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78

Muddy Waters Coffee

Costa Rican Poás Volcano

Review Date: Nov 1998

The coffee is buried under the taste of the roast. To the roastmaster's credit, however, this is no thin, carbony super-dark roast. It displays a pungent heaviness, flirting with bitter, softened at the edges by an almost subliminal sweetness. The sweetness intensifies somewhat in the finish, pushing the pungency toward chocolate. It never quite gets there, however.

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88

Batdorf & Bronson

Mexico Organic

Review Date: Nov 1998
Price: NA

Extraordinary aroma: Nothing dramatic, but that may be the point here. Balanced and gently complex. Crisp dry tones keep the levitating sweetness grounded. Hints of smoke in the finish sweeten toward chocolate in the aftertaste.

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85

Elm City Roasters

Costa Rica

Review Date: Oct 1998

Floral, fruity tones dominate, modulating to a sweet spiciness in the finish. The fruit reasserts itself in the long aftertaste. The fruitiness flirts with the over-the-top lush taste called ferment, but to my palate remains on the fresh, pleasing side of the fruit-ferment line.

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85

Orleans Coffee Exchange

Costa Rican Viennese

Review Date: Oct 1998

A natural, vanilla-toned sweetness distinguishes a low-key but lively profile. Nut and spice notes complicate the vanilla sweetness in the aroma, but by finish and aftertaste the vanilla gently (and pleasingly) dominates. Little range or dimension; the vanilla is the main act.

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NR

Alpen Sierra Coffee Roasters

Vienna Roast

Review Date: Oct 1998

Some cups of the sample are marred by a slight but distracting hardness, probably a fault in either drying or storage of the green coffee. The untainted cups are gentle, chocolaty and sweet, with a touch, perhaps, of flowers.

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NR

City Bean Coffee

Brazil Fazenda Vista Alegre

Review Date: Oct 1998

Some cups display a muted but disturbingly hard off-taste, probably a fault in the drying. The clean cups are low-key, sweet, with a pleasant, round earthiness and excellent resonance or dimension.

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89

Torreo Coffee and Tea

Guatemala Finca Bella Carmona

Review Date: Oct 1998

An unusually light-bodied, high-toned Guatemala, distinguished by a clean, bright acidity and sweet flowers in the finish. A hint of sweet spice or perhaps chocolate-toned fruitiness resonates under the flowers.

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86

Intelligentsia Coffee Roasters

Black Cat Blend

Review Date: Oct 1998

Restrained, low-toned, rather full-bodied, but not flat. In fact, alive with understated nuance: some tobacco tones, a full, dry spice impression that could be called chocolate; perhaps a hint of fruit or wine in the round finish. The aftertaste leaves a balanced memory of chocolate sweetness and dry tobacco.

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NR

Elm City Roasters

Elm City House Blend

Review Date: Oct 1998

About half the cups of this low-toned but forceful blend hint at the taste defect called bagginess, a flat, ropey taste green coffee acquires when it has not been fully cured before shipping or stored properly. The cups free of defect display a subdued intensity powered by a spicy, edge-of-astringent pungency.

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84

City Bean Coffee

Guatemala La Flor del Cafe

Review Date: Oct 1998

The acidity is light and bright with a shimmer of fruit. At the center of the profile a slight pungency is nuanced by dry wine tones. Not much range, but solid dimension and outstanding balance.

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84

Torreo Coffee and Tea

Kenya AA

Review Date: Oct 1998

The winy acidity characteristic of Kenyas here is pungent and deep, without a trace of fruit or shimmer of berry. It is possible the coffee has faded a bit in storage. Still, a powerful coffee that offers an interesting twist to the Kenya theme.

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79

Orleans Coffee Exchange

Blue Ribbon Blend

Review Date: Oct 1998

It is interesting. The solid, rather simple profile is centered on a deep, mouth-filling, pungent richness. Buried in the pungency is an odd but not unpleasant note that I don't quite remember tasting in coffee: a sort of dry saltiness.

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92

Alpen Sierra Coffee Roasters

Kenya Nyaithee AA

Review Date: Oct 1998

It is a measure of this coffee's complexity that every time I returned to the cup it provoked new adjectives. Winy (the favorite), pungent and smoky, vanilla overtones, and in the finish sweetness, prune and chocolate. The body is rather full for a Kenya, and the cup almost shockingly rich. Like all great Kenyas this one keeps shifting and building complexity from first impression through aftertaste.

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91

Batdorf & Bronson

Kenya AA

Review Date: Sep 1998

Floral, berry-like, high-toned and vivacious, this striking coffee displays less winy authority than many Kenyas but greater charm. Light-bodied but not light-weight: gives us a sort of levitating richness.

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91

Armeno Coffee

Bayview Farms Kona Extra Fancy

Review Date: Sep 1998

Complete and classic. Dry and acidy, but the acidity is held inside a deep, resonant matrix and complicated by richly wine-tinged fruit tones. Sweetens exquisitely in the finish. The medium body is smooth and buttery.

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89

Jeremiah's Pick Coffee

Mocha Java Blend

Review Date: Sep 1998

An extraordinarily clean, elegant Mocha-Java. The contribution of the two Ethiopian coffees is brightly fruity, floral and exhilaratingly fresh. The Java mostly stays out of the way, contributing a slight pungency to balance the Ethiopias' high-toned sweetness. The light body could be taken as a fault, but I found it more exhilaratingly weightless than disappointingly thin.

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89

Heritage Coffee Company

Yemen Mocha Mattari

Review Date: Sep 1998

Distinct fruity chocolate tones, cherryish and round, are balanced by a tobaccoey dryness. When the coffee is hot the chocolate-fruit tones are fresh, complex, and thrilling. As the cup cools the tobacco tones intensify and turn slightly (though cleanly) astringent.

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