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91

Kuma Coffee

Carmen Estate Natural Panama

Roaster Location: Seattle, Washington
Coffee Origin: Boquete growing region, western Panama
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 57/81
Est. Price: $16.00/12 ounces
Review Date: August 2012
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 7

Blind Assessment

Floral high notes and honey sweetness overlay deeper, earthier notes that suggest mushrooms, moist fresh-fallen leaves, or, in the cup, the vegetal chocolate of roasted cocoa nibs. Richly tart acidity hints at lemon; lean but silky mouthfeel. Flowers in particular carry into a drying finish.

Notes

This is a dry-processed or "natural" coffee, meaning the beans were dried inside the fruit rather than after the fruit has been removed, as is the case with wet-processed or "washed" coffees. Carmen Estate is among the most distinguished of Panama's fine coffee farms, with a string of successes in green coffee competitions. Kuma Coffee is a small Seattle, Washington based roaster committed to the idea that coffee fosters relationships. Visit www.kumacoffee.com or call 206-384-6092 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Aficionados and coffee adventurers may enjoy this unusual dried-in-the-fruit profile, in which distinct floral notes are supported by backgrounded, savory, earth-toned suggestions.

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This review originally appeared in the August, 2012 tasting report: Not Your Same Old Panama Coffees

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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