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86

Starbucks Coffee

Black Apron Exclusive Kopi Kampung Sulawesi

Roaster Location: Seattle, Washington
Coffee Origin: Toraja growing region, southwestern Sulawesi, Indonesia
Roast Level: Dark
Agtron: 31/44
Review Date: August 2006
Aroma: 7
Acidity: 7
Body: 7
Flavor: 7
Aftertaste: 7

Blind Assessment

Hints of banana-toned fruit, chocolate, fresh-baked bread in the complex but rather listless aroma. Thin though silky mouthfeel. Pungent, gently burned cedar character in the cup, with floral and caramelly chocolate suggestions. Nicely malty finish, but a hint of burned building rubber.

Notes

The small-holding tribal growers of the Toraja region of the Indonesian island of Sulawesi produce coffees that, even more than the coffees of the neighboring island of Sumatra, typically express an earthy, often spicy, sometimes forest-floor character encouraged by unorthodox fruit removal and drying processes. This is number three in Starbucks' 2006 Black Apron Exclusives line of distinctive seasonally available coffees. Visit www.starbucks.com for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Another decent but essentially listless and flat coffee from Starbucks, which over the past couple of years seems to have finally succumbed to the dangers of hugeness. In a case like this one I am not clear whether the coffee started out without character and energy, was held in the warehouse too long before roasting, was roasted badly, or whether it simply sat in the packaging so long after roasting and it went flat without going outright stale.

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This review originally appeared in the August, 2006 tasting report: Now or Never: Special Reserve Coffees

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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