Richly scorched wood dominates in aroma and cup, with hints of backgrounded chocolate, sweet earth and, faintly, lemon and cardamom-like spice. Acidity is entirely folded into an intense roasty pungency. Light-bodied, lean mouthfeel though with some smoothness. Roast-toned chocolate in the short finish fades to simple drying sweetness in the long.
By Kenneth Davids
November 9th, 2012
Balanced, quiet, clean. Gently charred cedar, hints of sweet earth, almond, dark chocolate, grapefruity citrus in aroma. Simplifies in the cup to muted almond and dark chocolate. Roast-rounded acidity; light, leanish mouthfeel hints at silkiness. A suggestion of dark chocolate carries into a rather rich though drying finish.
Price: $5.52/12 ounces
Sweet-toned and balanced, though muted. Fresh-cut fir, chocolate, caramel, perhaps an apricot-like fruit, all rather subdued, in aroma and cup. Soft, faintly brisk acidity; leanish but smooth mouthfeel. Flavor fades quickly in a clean, mildly drying finish.
Sweet-toned, clean, neutral. Grainy sweetness, faint nut and chocolate hints in aroma and cup. Delicately brisk, muted acidity. Fullish though rather inert mouthfeel. Some chocolaty sweetness persists in a clean though rather empty finish.
Price: $16.80/48 ounces
Heavily scorched wood dominates in aroma and cup, with hints of faded chocolate, clove and molasses. Acidity is folded inside the scorched pungency of the roast; mouthfeel is light and leanish. The finish is bittersweet and drying.
Clean, simple, woody. Sweet, mildly charred wood, molasses, caramel in aroma and cup. Soft, muted acidity; medium body, slightly lean mouthfeel. Muted flavor fades quickly in a clean but drying finish.
Decent structure: tartly brisk, though bitterish acidity, light but silky mouthfeel. Aroma and flavor are muted and mildly unpleasant, however: Faint, faded cedar, overripe fruit that with imagination hints at chocolate. The fruit turns sourish in the finish.
Flat and woody with a cloying, disturbing sweetness and not much else in way of flavor or aroma. The sweetness could be taken as slightly composty or slightly chocolaty or both. Virtually no acidity; smooth but leanish mouthfeel. The composty sweetness is most intense and unpleasant in the cup, less so in the finish.