Symphonically fruit-toned and shimmeringly bright. An “underlying crushed grape sweetness” (co-cupper Wendy De Jong, 94) supported an array of lemon and berry suggestions. Ken (94) found deepening hints of fresh-cut fir and dark chocolate as well. Forward but accessible acidity, silky mouthfeel, sweetly tart finish.
By Kenneth Davids
December 7th, 2010
Co-cupper Wendy De Jong (92) admired this coffee’s savory depth more than Ken (90) did. Wendy: “floral and herbal aroma with dark cocoa. Complex flavors of savory herbs, sweet tomatoes, lemongrass and sweet stewed fruits.” Ken wanted a bit more brightness and shimmer. Both appreciated an acidity that was “rich” for Ken and “well-structured” for Wendy. Both commended a “creamy and supple” (Wendy) mouthfeel. “Sophisticated and lovely coffee gracefully roasted” Wendy concluded.
Nut and molasses-like sweetness in the understated aroma. “Heavy and smooth” (co-cupper Wendy De Jong 89) to “lightly syrupy” (Ken 90) mouthfeel. Balanced acidity. Both Wendy and Ken found low-acid fruit leaning toward dark chocolate in cup and finish, though their associations varied, from Ken’s simple “cherryish fruit” to Wendy’s evocative “apricot … mulled wine and apples.” Both agreed that this coffee stayed on the rich side of astringency in the sweet, chocolate-toned finish.
Both co-cupper Wendy De Jong (89) and Ken (90) found pleasingly and sweetly tart notes (coffee cherry for Wendy, ripe lemon for Ken) complemented by apricot-like stone fruit and a rounding milk chocolate in aroma and cup. Both cuppers were impressed by a “lightly syrupy” (Ken) mouthfeel and a sweet, cocoa-toned finish.
A deep, sweet-toned complexity with some roast influence provoked differing yet overlapping descriptors from co-cupper Wendy De Jong (89) and Ken (91). Wendy found “stewed apple” and “ripe black plums and licorice” in aroma and cup respectively, while Ken (91) found blackberry, cocoa, and a delicate but distinct hint of flowers. The soft, balanced acidity was a bit too soft for Wendy (7) though Ken (8) found it nicely supported the general low-toned richness of the profile. Both responded positively to a smooth, lightly syrupy mouthfeel and sweet finish.
Deep, balanced, with a round, low-acid fruit that struck co-cupper Wendy De Jong (89) as cherry in the nose and melon and ripe pineapple in the cup, while Ken (89) read a fruit-toned chocolate in both. Wendy joined him in the chocolate camp (“milk chocolate”) for the finish. Both found the acidity quiet, the mouthfeel plush.
Co-cupper Wendy De Jong showed a bit more enthusiasm (89) than Ken (88) for this roast-influenced profile. For the dominant aromatic note in the cup Wendy read “fresh fig,” Ken simply “raisin.” Both cited a pungent, spicy cedar; Ken added dark chocolate. For Wendy the acidity was “mild and fruity.” Fullish body, though Ken found the mouthfeel slightly lean.
Price: $19.00/12 ounces.
Some difference emerged here between co-cupper Wendy De Jong (87) and Ken (89). The main divergence may have been owing to roast; Ken apparently tolerates lighter roasts more than Wendy does, who observes s “This super clean and bright coffee finished with a slight grainy note and thinness that could be addressed by more roasting experiments.” Ken, on the other hand, found pungent berry and tart cherry notes that for him reflected the fresh, pleasing flavor of the coffee fruit itself as framed by the lightish roast. There was some agreement, however: on the up side both Wendy and Ken praised the cleanly tart character, silky mouthfeel and solid finish; on the down both found some hints of fading in the green coffee.