An extraordinarily pure coffee in a dramatically light roast style. Sweet nut, fresh-cut cedar and orangy citrus in the aroma. Medium-bodied and giddily sweet in the cup, delicate but rich, with low, wine-toned acidity, an orange-toned fruit and hints of nut, flowers and chocolate. The complex fruit notes carry into a quietly rich, clean finish.
By Kenneth Davids
May 1st, 2007
A slight, serendipitous hint of sweet ferment complicates the rich fruit, turning it toward a chocolaty, brandyish cherry or orange with a hint of blueberry. The chocolate takes on an almost minty character in the sweet, very low-acid cup. As the cup cools a bare suggestion of bitterness surfaces, the shadow side perhaps of the rich, fermenty sweetness.
Very sweet, deep, but delicate orangy fruit in the aroma. In the cup big body and syrupy mouthfeel, very sweet, with pungent grapefruit and moist earth notes. Rich, sweet short finish, slightly astringent and heavy in the long.
Sweet-toned and rich aroma with some floral notes. In the cup medium body, silky mouthfeel, low acidity, sweet, low-toned, rich, with chocolate notes and a hint of walnut. Rich short finish; the mildly bitterish walnut tones dominate in the long.
Intense aroma in a narrow range: pungent rosemary-like herb notes, an orangy citrus, and some slightly charred wood notes. In the cup lean-bodied but forceful, dominated by a grapefruity pungency with a slight charred edge that with imagination reads as a semi-sweet chocolate. The chocolate is explicit, however, in the impressively sweet, long finish.
Sweet, delicate, nutlike or carob-like notes and a hint of flowers in the aroma. In the cup medium bodied, with continued sweet nut, prune and carob notes together with agreeably persistent floral nuance. As the cup cools and the aromatics begin to fade a woody, albeit a richly woody, character emerges. Sweet, short finish with a slight, gentle astringency.
Simple, gently roasty aroma: toasted bread, lightly charred cedar, hints of cardamom and dried fruit, dried cherries perhaps. In the cup leanish mouthfeel with good sweetness but rather flat and simple, with continued charred cedar and perhaps some walnut notes. The nut notes dominate in the short finish; the long finish is sweet but slightly astringent.
Sweet, woody, simple aroma: perhaps some pipe tobacco and lemon notes. In the cup definitely mild in acidity with a caramelly sweetness, but all suggestions of normal coffee aromatics vanish, with the main sensation a neutral woodiness that carries from cup into a sweet but rather empty finish.
Sweet, simple aroma dominated by walnut and neutral wood notes. In the cup lean in mouthfeel with some raisiny fruit in front, but the main sensation is salty wood - think licking driftwood. The salty/sweet theme continues in the finish, though the fruit hangs on, an agreeably soft banana-like sensation. It's difficult to assign a rating to such an oddly woody, lifeless beverage; but it does show sweetness and a little agreeable fruit, hence the 78 as opposed to, say, 60, or 50, or 0.