By Kenneth Davids
September 8th, 2003
This voluptuously round dark roast is a tribute to the roastmaster's art. Opulently and robustly roasty, sweet, and utterly without burned bitterness. Not much nuance, but plenty of sweet, resonant depth and smoky-spicy tones.
When hot, complexly and giddily floral and fruity - caramel in the aroma, suggestions of lilac and violet, papaya and cantaloupe in the cup. The extravagantly fruity character of the cup hints at sweet ferment, which in fact emerges as the cup cools, hardening the profile a bit and turning it slightly salty. But try it; no one drinks coffee cold anyhow except coffee reviewers.
A powerfully acidy coffee, sharply rich and winy. Beneath the acidy assertion patient drinking reveals subdued but seductive floral undertones. The aromatics are splendid but the mouthfeel is a bit too astringent for my taste.
The cup is dominated by a simple, rich acidity. The acidy sensation is rather sharp and overbearing when the cup is hot, though it rounds and sweetens as the cup cools, revealing wine-toned fruit and a resonance that could only be guessed at when the cup was hot.