Medium bodied but delicate, soft, exquisitely balanced, giddy with sweet fruit tones that may suggest cherry but ultimately express the purity and elegance of a perfectly processed coffee. The finish is sweet, long, and gently rich.
By Kenneth Davids
May 3rd, 2003
A grandly acidy coffee, austerely tart yet voluptuously sweet. Complicated by hints of green apple or pie cherry, but the main expression is the huge, rich gesture of the acidity. The finish is tart but round and opulent.
Medium-bodied, sweet, with the typical wild, slightly fermented Yemen fruit tones, in this case suggesting overripe cherry, apricot, and melon. In the finish the fruit ferment reads as a sort of brandied, bittersweet chocolate. A slight astringency in the finish suggests that during storage this coffee faded a bit, as Yemens quickly do.
A wildly flawed but perversely interesting coffee. Dramatically uneven from cup to cup, with some cups dominated by a heavy and rather oppressive Mediterranean spice character (thyme or rosemary) and others displaying less oppressive and more pleasant floral and bitter fruit tones - in the latter case, imagine bitter-chocolate-covered jasmine petals. All of this aromatic peculiarity probably derives from a combination of mildly fermented fruit with a musty overlay acquired while the still fruit-encased beans were drying.