Superb range: delicate floral top notes, sweet cherryish middle, bitter, muskily animal bottom. A full but subtle sweetness prevails in the cup, a rich bitterness in the aftertaste. As exotic and complex as a gamelon performance.
By Kenneth Davids
March 1st, 2001
A superb Sulawesi: rich, big-bodied but smooth, with a shimmer of acidity animating its heart. Elegant balance of bitter and sweet tones, fine range from middle to bottom of the profile, a hint of flowers, and deep, dry plum-wine fruitiness.
Very low-toned, smooth, with a dry, fruity bittersweetness that, with slow drinking, settles toward chocolate. A slight, musty astringency shows up in the aftertaste, but the pleasantly pruny bittersweetness prevails.
A fine sweet, roasty nose with hints of spice and leather. In the cup the spice and animal notes deepen toward earth and mustiness. The relatively light roast allows a touch of acidity to brighten the cup, but fails to develop the underlying sweetness.