97

JBC Coffee Roasters

Ninety Plus Gesha Estates Limited Batch #227

Location: Madison, Wisconsin

Origin: Chiriqui Province, far western Panama

Roast: Light

Est. Price: $68.50/4 ounces

Review Date: July 2017

Agtron: 67/97

Aroma: 10

Acidity: 9

Body: 9

Flavor: 10

Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment:

Delicate yet deeply aromatic, gloriously and almost impossibly complex in its fruit and floral expression. Fruit ranges from grapefruit through lychee to passionfruit; flowers suggest lavender, rose, more. There is chocolate and a grapy Cognac reduction, and finally a savory resonance we called sweet mushroom. Juicy, floral-tart acidity; viscous, syrupy mouthfeel. The finish is laden with complex floral top-notes in the short, rounding to hints of sweet fruit and deep Cognac-toned chocolate in the long.

Notes:

This coffee is a collaboration between brothers Michael Johnson of JBC and Joseph Brodsky of Ninety Plus Coffee. It was produced entirely from trees of the celebrated Gesha variety of Arabica, and processed by a proprietary variation of the wet method in which the coffee fruit is subjected to fermentation and washing before drying. According to Brodsky, “This particular process is a result of a discovery of specific bacteria that are locally present at Ninety Plus Gesha Estates that were observed to yield unique flavor when applied to Gesha. These bacteria were subsequently cultivated and applied in a controlled way to focus and enhance their impact in the fermentation process. Lot 227 is part of a series of coffees in 2017 (Jose Alfredo Gesha Series), of which all, in varying degrees, exhibit this unique flavor.” Packaged in attractive and reusable decorative cans. JBC Coffee Roasters’ vision is simple: “let the coffee lead the way” through sourcing and roasting the best and most unique coffees available and rewarding the farmers who grow those coffees with substantial premiums. Visit www.jbccoffeeroasters.com or call 608-256-5282 for more information.

The Bottom Line: An extraordinarily original coffee, both in story (Gesha variety, unorthodox processing) and in its stunning aromatics, both intricately complex, yet grandly and resonantly complete.