89	Stumptown Coffee Roasters Portland, Oregon Sumatra Mandheling Grade 1 Roast: Dark Review Date: January 2005 Origin: Mandheling growing region, North Sumatra Province, Sumatra, Indonesia Price: NA

Blind Assessment: Deeply and opulently sweet, big-bodied, with a bracing, bitter edge of spice, herb and cedar. The cup reveals undercurrents of wine-toned fruit. The short finish is rich, the long leaves us with a slight astringent saltiness.

Notes: Mandheling is the traditional market name for coffee grown in the region around Lake Toba in north-central Sumatra. Stumptown Coffee is a small-batch premium roasting company that wholesales its coffees as well as serves them in French press format in its three Portland cafýs. Visit www.stumptowncoffee.com or call 503-230-7797 for more info.

Who Should Drink It: A classic West-Coast Sumatra: deep, bittersweet, full-bodied.

Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.