90	Quartermaine Coffee Roasters Rockville, Maryland Sumatra Roast: Very-Dark Review Date: January 2005 Origin: Northern provinces of Sumatra, Indonesia Price: NA

Blind Assessment: Powerful and complex. Extraordinary aroma: spice, a fresh, nostril-tingling cedar, low-toned tropical fruit, bananas perhaps. In the cup a tingle of sweet acidity, more cedar, and fruit that turns sweetly and richly tart - grapefruit, tamarind. Memories of this complexity persist in the finish, softening a mild astringency. Reader Amy Bowser nominated this coffee, calling it "clean but with huge depth and character."

Notes: Quartermaine Coffee Roasters is a small-batch specialty roaster that remains loyal to the roots of specialty coffee, emphasizing freshness maintained not through packaging but via frequent roasting and rapid turnover. Visit www.quartermaine.com or call 800-245-6563 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: The hearty virtues of a traditional dark-roasted Sumatra without the usual musty/fermented ambiguities.

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