90	Intelligentsia Coffee Roasters Chicago, Illinois Kenya Gaaki Central Roast: Medium-Light Review Date: October 2004 Origin: Nyeri growing region, south-cental Kenya Price: NA

Blind Assessment: Ken (91) admired this coffee a bit more than co-cupper Christy Thorns (88), who praised its "gentle grapefruit-like acidity and a nicely rounded, sweet and berry finish" but didn't carry on about it much. For his part, Ken particularly admired this coffee's citrus-toned acidity, which he found sweet, rounded, and "profoundly rich and cleanly and elegantly wine-like."

Notes: Kenya is one of the world's most admired coffee origins. Intelligentsia is a leading, award-winning Chicago-area roaster with a commitment to quality epitomized by the practice of print roast dates on its attractive coffee packaging. Visit www.intelligentsiacoffee.com or call 888-945-9786 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: An essay in sweet, understated acidity for coffee purists and other medium-roast-loving throwbacks.

Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.