90	Flying Goat Coffee Healdsburg, California Kenya Peaberry Roast: Medium-Dark Review Date: October 2004 Origin: South-central Kenya Price: NA

Blind Assessment: Both Ken (92) and co-cupper Christy Thorns (88) remarked on an odd (and for Ken an interesting) character to the aroma. Christy called it "stewed berry," Ken - a rich, almost meaty impression - Dijon mustard and ripe tomatoes.? In the cup Christy found "the acidity a bit timid, [though] the sugary sweetness of the finish more than compensates." Ken admired the "sweet, gently tart fruitiness" of the acidity, finding it more elegant than timid.

Notes: Kenya is one of the world's most admired coffee origins. Peaberries result when the coffee fruit develops only a single, oval bean rather than the usual pair of flat-sided beans. Peaberries produce a somewhat different (often better) cup than normal beans from the same crop, from which they may or may not be separated during grading. Flying Goat is a quality-oriented small-batch wholesale/retail roaster located in northern California's wine country. Visit www.flyinggoatcoffee.com or call 800-675-3599 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: The unusual character of the aroma may interest aficionados, but for lovers of distinctive medium-roast coffees the gentle acidity and sweet finish will be the main appeal.

Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.