86	Alpen Sierra Coffee South Lake Tahoe, California Aged Sumatra Mandheling Roast: Very-Dark Review Date: December 2003 Origin: Lake Toba region, northern Sumatra, Indonesia. Price: NA

Blind Assessment: A big-bodied, massively roasty coffee. Intense musty tones read as rosemary, cardamom perhaps, with a shimmer of chocolate. The intense, monumental character fades a bit as the cup cools.

Notes: Coffees are aged either deliberately or inadvertently. This Sumatra was most likely aged deliberately in Singapore using a procedure whereby coffees are stored in humid port conditions and periodically removed from the bags and raked to prevent mold formation during the two or so years of aging. Alpen Sierra is a quality-oriented, retail/wholesale specialty roaster serving the Lake Tahoe region and beyond. Visit www.alpensierra.com or call 800-531-1405 for more info.

Who Should Drink It: Lovers of those dark-roasted coffees that impose their authority on almost any quantity of milk.

Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.