82	Maxwell House Premium Cup Tarrytown, New York House Blend Roast: Medium Review Date: June 2003 Origin: Not disclosed Price: NA

Blind Assessment: Round, mild, sweet, with slightly fermented fruit notes that with imagination read as a sort of chocolaty peach or cherry. Turns slightly astringent in the finish.

Notes: Purchased at A&P, whole bean in sealed 10-ounce foil bag with one-way valve; $6.38/pound. Apparently an effort by Kraft Foods to inject its venerable Maxwell House brand into the whole-bean specialty world. Visit www.maxwellhouse.com or call 800-432-6333 for more info.

Who Should Drink It: Lovers of sweet dessert wines perhaps. Mild ferment (the sugars in the coffee fruit begin to ferment before the removal of the fruit) is technically a taste defect, but many coffee drinkers enjoy mild, wine-like ferment tones when they are sweet and clean, as they are here. The problem with accidental virtues like a fortuitously sweet ferment is that it may not turn up in the next lot of the same coffee.

Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.