90	Intelligentsia Coffee Roasters Chicago, Illinois Panama La Torcaza Roast: Medium Review Date: February 2003 Origin: Bouquete growing region, western Panama. Price: $11.95/16oz

Blind Assessment: Intense but balanced acidity, medium body, and tartly sweet fruit notes -- berry and citrus -- that soften toward chocolate in the finish. Director of Coffee Geoff Watts praises this coffee's "grace and completeness."

Notes: La Torcaza is one of several coffee farms located around the base of Volcan Baru near the Costa Rica border that produce exceptional, distinctive coffees. Intelligentsia is a leading Chicago- area roaster with a Keith Haring-style logo, excellent coffee, and a commitment to quality epitomized by the practice of printing roast dates on coffee packaging. Visit www.intelligentsiacoffee.com or call 888-945-9786 for more info.

Who Should Drink It: Coffee classicists for its clean, sweetly acidy Central America character; coffee romantics for its berry and citrus nod toward East Africa.

Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.