Coffee Review - Esmeralda Special by CafeTaster
  • CafeTaster

    I-Lan City, Taiwan
  • 2012 Esmeralda Special Natural Panama

Roast: Medium-Light Review Date: August 2012
Origin: Boquete growing region, western Panama Price: NTD $3000/8 ounces

Blind Assessment: Intense, lyric, complex floral character – tea rose, lily, lavender, honey – anchored by a crisp, cocoa-toned chocolate. Sweet-toned, floral acidity; lightly syrupy mouthfeel. Dry but rich, flavor-saturated finish.

Notes: This is an auction lot of Esmeralda Gesha from Hacienda La Esmeralda, the producer that first introduced the celebrated Gesha variety of Arabica to the world. With its generally elongated beans and distinctive floral and crisp, often chocolaty cup, the Gesha variety continues to distinguish itself as one of the world's most unique coffees. This is a dry-processed or "natural" version, meaning the beans were dried inside the fruit rather than after the fruit has been removed, as is the case with wet-processed or "washed" coffees. CaféTaster is an aficionado nano-roaster of the style increasingly characteristic of East Asia countries like Taiwan and Korea, roasting very high-end coffees in very small volumes for a tiny clientele of passionate coffee enthusiasts, in the process selling coffee education as much as coffee itself. Email roaster Jerry Huang at for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Affluent aficionados interested in sampling a version of the great Gesha profile that foregrounds with almost disconcerting intensity its famous floral and cocoa tendencies.


Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.