88	Peet's Coffee & Tea Berkeley, California Sumatra Blue Batak Roast: Dark Review Date: January 2012 Origin: Northern Sumatra, Indonesia Price: $16.95/16 ounces

Blind Assessment: Rich, pungent, grapefruit-like citrus dominates aroma and cup, with dark chocolate, berry and cedar complication. Round, crisp, balanced acidity; leanish mouthfeel. Sweet-toned but drying finish.

Notes: Blue Batak is a particularly refined version of the traditional style of fruity, earthy Sumatra coffee. Originally founded by the late Alfred Peet, one of American specialty coffee's pioneers, Peet's is now a publicly traded corporation that so far has managed to maintain its essential identity during a slow, careful expansion from its intensely loyalist base in the San Francisco Bay area. Peet's signature dark, "deep" roast is often imitated but less often duplicated. Visit www.peets.com or call 800-999-2132 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: A pungently authoritative but cleanly refined Sumatra in a tactfully darker-roasted style.

Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.