90	Rusty's Hawaiian Coffee Pahala, Hawaii Ka'u Coffee Natural Dried Red Caturra Roast: Medium Review Date: December 2011 Origin: Ka'u growing district, southwestern corner of the "Big Island" of Hawaii. Price: $24.00/8 ounces

Blind Assessment: Brandy, mint, cocoa and apricot in a quiet but clean dried-in-the-fruit profile. Tart, apple-toned acidity; lightly syrupy mouthfeel. Some flavor persists in the simple, savory-sweet finish.

Notes: Ka'u is a newly emerging Hawaii coffee growing district centered thirty miles or so south of the famous Kona region. This is a dried-in-the-fruit or “natural” coffee produced on the farm of Lorie Obra in Ka'u. Red Caturra is a sturdy though usually not distinctive-tasting variety of Arabica. Lorie meticulously picks, processes and roasts her coffees using traditional methods and artisan attention. Visit www.rustyshawaiian.com or call 808-928-8916 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Those who want to sample a quieter, cleaner version of the typically lushly fruity but often fermenty dried-in-the-fruit, “natural”-processed cup.

Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.