94	Johnson Brothers Coffee Roasters Madison, Wisconsin Kenya Kirinyaga Kii Peaberry Espresso Roast: Medium-Dark Review Date: August 2011 Origin: South-central Kenya. Price: $13.95/12 ounces

Blind Assessment: Evaluated as espresso. In the small cup roundly balanced but engagingly complex. Melony fruit, apple, brandy, dark chocolate suggestions in both aroma and cup. Light-footed, creamy mouthfeel; deep, cleanly resonant finish with particular persistence of the dark chocolate note. Strong presence in two parts milk, dominated by a fruit-toned bittersweet chocolate.

Notes: Produced mainly from trees of the admired, Bourbon-derived SL 28 and SL 34 varieties, this offering consists entirely of peaberries, a kind of bean that results when the coffee fruit develops only a single, oval bean rather than the usual pair of flat-sided beans. Peaberries produce a somewhat different (often better) cup than normal beans from the same crop, from which they may or may not be separated during grading. Johnson Brothers Coffee Roasters is a distinguished small-batch roasting company. Visit www.johnsonbrotherscoffee.com or call 608-256-5282 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Superb straight-shot espresso, smoothly balanced yet lively in detail. Loses its balance a bit in short milk but should power through considerable dairy in taller drinks.

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