91	Kickapoo Coffee Viroqua, Wisconsin Rwanda Musasa Roast: Medium-Light Review Date: July 2011 Origin: Gakenke growing region, Rwanda. Price: $12.75/12 ounces

Blind Assessment: Intense, exhilaratingly complex citrus character, simultaneously suggesting bitterish lemon zest, sweet ripe lemon, pungent grapefruit with a heady hint of citrus blossom. Lightly syrupy body; clean but tartly dry finish.

Notes: Rwanda's tremendous potential as fine coffee producer has only come to fruition over the past several years owing to generous support from international aid agencies, the specialty coffee community and the industry of its growers. Made up entirely of the admired Red Bourbon cultivar, this lot comes from the Dukunde Kawa Cooperative. Although the words "Fair Trade" appear on the label of the attractive 12-ounce valve-topped can, judging by the absence of trademarked seal this coffee may not be certified Fair Trade by FairTrade USA (formerly TransFair USA) the sole American certifier for the Fair Trade Labeling Organizations International (FLO). However, Kickapoo is affiliated with the Fair Trade Federation, a membership (rather than certifying) organization devoted to "providing fair wages and good employment opportunities to economically disadvantaged artisans and farmers worldwide." Kickapoo Coffee is a Wisconsin micro-roaster devoted to organic and fair-trade principles and coffees. Visit www.kickapoocoffee.com or call 608-637-2022 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Those who enjoy intense, challenging, strong-charactered beverages.

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