94	Johnson Brothers Coffee Roasters Madison, Wisconsin Kenya Peaberry Kirinyaga Kii Roast: Medium-Light Review Date: September 2010 Origin: South-central Kenya. Price: $14.95/12 oz.

Blind Assessment: An essay in refined acidity: balanced, tartly sweet, nuanced by ripe tomato and apricot. Further complications of nut and perhaps milk chocolate. Particularly impressive finish: sweet, long, saturated with apricot-toned fruit.

Notes: Despite controversial national coffee leadership and recent social disorder, Kenya cooperatives continue to produce some of the world's most elegant and distinctive coffees. This sample consists entirely of peaberries, a kind of bean that results when the coffee fruit develops only a single, oval bean rather than the usual pair of flat-sided beans. Peaberries produce a somewhat different (often better) cup than normal beans from the same crop, from which they may or may not be separated during grading. Johnson Brothers Coffee Roasters is a distinguished small-batch roasting company. Visit www.johnsonbrotherscoffee.com or call 608-256-5282 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Superbly bright but balanced version of the great Kenya profile.

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