91	Hula Daddy Holualoa, Hawaii Kona Fancy Natural Roast: Light Review Date: March 2010 Origin: Holualoa, North Kona growing district, Hawaii. Price: $79.95 / 16 oz.

Blind Assessment: Complications of fruit ferment are rich and complex in both aroma and cup: Deep, sweet, chocolaty molasses and moist pipe tobacco, a round apricot-like fruit, and a powerful suggestion of dusk flowers extend from aroma through a deeply flavor-saturated finish. The richness fades a bit as the cup cools, revealing a shadow composty edge to the ferment, but the main impression of opulence persists.

Notes: This coffee is a dry-processed or "natural" coffee, meaning the beans were dried inside the fruit rather than after the fruit is removed, as is the case with wet-processed or "washed" coffees. Hula Daddy is a boutique coffee farm at the 1,400 foot level of the Mount Hualalai volcano near the northern end of the Kona growing district, five minutes above the town of Kailua-Kona. This coffee was selected and processed under the supervision of Miguel Meza, one of specialty coffee's younger visionaries. Visit www.huladaddy.com or call 888-553-2339 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: A good starter coffee for those with dollars to spare who have not yet experimented with the lush, sweet-fermented, dried-in-the-fruit coffees most closely associated with Ethiopia but now emerging from places as diverse as Kona and Costa Rica.

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