88	Wood-Fire Roasted Coffee Reno, Nevada Sumatra Mandheling Roast: Medium-Dark Review Date: May 2007 Origin: Mandheling growing region, northern Sumatra, Indonesia. Price: NA

Blind Assessment: Intense aroma in a narrow range: pungent rosemary-like herb notes, an orangy citrus, and some slightly charred wood notes. In the cup lean-bodied but forceful, dominated by a grapefruity pungency with a slight charred edge that with imagination reads as a semi-sweet chocolate. The chocolate is explicit, however, in the impressively sweet, long finish.

Notes: Mandheling is the traditional market name for an admired coffee type grown in the region around Lake Toba in north-central Sumatra. These coffees are marked by low acidity and idiosyncratic flavor notes that appear to result from serendipitous taints - mild ferment and mildew - acquired during unconventional drying procedures. The Wood-Fire Roasted Coffee Company roasts, of course, on a machine that uses oak wood as a heat source, which means its coffees are slow roasted, an approach that tends to reduce the sharper kinds of acidity. Visit www.woodfireroasted.com or call 775-865-2033 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: An impressive dark-roasted cup, simple but intense, with little bitterness or astringency and low acidity.

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