92	Stumptown Coffee Roasters Portland, Oregon Panama Esmeralda Especial Roast: Light Review Date: October 2005 Origin: Boquete growing district, western Panama Price: NA

Blind Assessment: Exquisitely delicate aroma suggests a fine Oolong tea, with extravagant floral notes but a distinct (and coffeeish) hint of chocolate. The chocolate strengthens in the cup, with a tartly sweet, lemon-toned acidity. The lemon-chocolate notes outlast a gentle astringency in the long, pleasing finish.

Notes: The 2004 version of this exceptional coffee attracted a score of 95.6 from a jury of international coffee cuppers at the Best of Panama 2004 Cupping Event, then, at the subsequent auction, set what would appear to be a world record price for a green coffee - $21.00 per pound - paid by a consortium of American specialty roasters. The 2005 crop also topped the competition, and like the record-setting lot from the previous year, was produced from trees of the Geisha variety of arabica, a variety with Ethiopian parentage, by Finca Esmeralda owners Price and Daniel Peterson. Under the youthful and enthusiastic leadership of Duane Sorenson, Stumptown has become a leading buyer and supporter of Cup of Excellence coffees. Visit www.stumptowncoffee.com or call 503-230-7797 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Those for whom the finest teas are too thin and the best coffees too heavy.

Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.